Too expensive to buy second hand memory How to measure?

Memory seems to keep increasing? It’s still on the rise! When will it drop? We might not see a decline until at least the second half of next year. So, what should you do now? Some people might suggest going for second-hand memory, but honestly, as long as the memory isn't being used for extended periods, its durability shouldn’t be an issue. However, this method of judgment is somewhat questionable. Recently, I added a piece of memory to my computer—yes, it’s second-hand. I thought about running some software to check it out! First and foremost, don’t overlook the memory specifications. Nowadays, most computer upgrades focus on DDR3, DDR3L, and DDR4 memory. Those with DDR2 should move on—it's practically obsolete. Any so-called “new” DDR2 memory you find is likely refurbished or made in underground factories. When it comes to DDR3 memory, the main specifications include DDR3 1066, 1333, and 1600. When upgrading, these should be your primary considerations. For instance, if your current memory is DDR3 1066, it won’t matter which one you choose, as it will run at the lowest frequency. Avoid DDR3 1066 memory if you're using DDR3 1333. Otherwise, it will still operate at DDR3 1066 speeds, leading to significant performance losses. There’s another crucial specification: DDR3 also has a low-voltage version called DDR3L. The "L" stands for low, with a working voltage of only 1.35V compared to DDR3's 1.5V. Before purchasing, make sure to check your computer’s supported memory specifications to avoid mistakes. You can use CPU-Z to verify this information. DDR4 memory also has plenty of second-hand options. If you’re using a 100-series chipset motherboard, consider getting second-hand memory to create a dual-channel setup for better performance. A DDR4 2133 is sufficient, though some motherboards technically support DDR4 2400 or even higher. However, I personally feel that going beyond DDR4 2133 isn’t necessary. For those with 200-series chipsets, DDR4 2400 is ideal, particularly if you’re using a 7th-generation Intel Core processor (which supports DDR4 2400). Lastly, there’s AMD-specific memory, which dates back to the DDR2 era. I won’t go into detail about why AMD users often get cheaper memory, but suffice it to say, it’s still a valid option. When buying second-hand memory, communication is key. Make sure to clarify everything with the seller before finalizing your purchase. For instance, if you're considering hand-delivered items, this is non-negotiable. Whether you're buying from an individual or a reseller, always discuss potential compatibility issues upfront and ensure you have room to return the product if needed. Especially since you already have existing memory installed. To test your memory, software like MemTest64 is highly recommended. You can comment on this post with “memory test” to get the download link (http://pan.baidu.com/s/1jIpCmF0). This software is portable, meaning you don’t need to install it—just decompress and double-click to run it. Click “Begin Test” to start. Keep in mind that the computer will be fully occupied during the test, and it usually takes around two hours to complete. If there’s a memory error, MemTest64 will stop automatically, making it quite user-friendly. If the test runs smoothly, your memory is good to go. Additionally, if you’re combining old and new memory in a dual-channel setup and it passes this test, it indicates no compatibility issues. Besides MemTest64, there are other software tools available for testing. I previously shared a list of seven PC test software in another post. These programs can assess performance and also serve as diagnostic tools to check for system stability. In simpler terms, they load the system to detect any operational errors. I hope these resources are helpful for all of you. Try them out and let me know how it goes!

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